Kayaking the Saguenay

Kayaking Saguenay Lac-Saint-Jean

The Saguenay Fjord was at a nasty, rolling boil, a chaotic mess of black and white and silver foam lacking any discernible pattern. Looking over my shoulder, I could see three-and four-foot waves rolling down the fjord behind us at a 45-degree angle, but our kayaks were getting hit by waves reflecting off the rock wall less than 200 metres to our right.

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Anti-poaching Elephant Patrol

Elephant Patrol Banda Aceh

A quick debriefing informs us that we’ll accompany two unique squads into the Leuser reserve; the first, an elephant patrol unit that guards a fragile swamp region from the voracious oil palm industry and the other an elite mountain foot patrol to journey deep into the heart of rhino and tiger country pursuing poachers and illegal loggers. Both units are unarmed, yet the criminals they track might not be. It hits me like a punch, I’ve arrived.

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