Some Like it Hot

Adored by seekers of fire and spice, and loathed (and even feared) by everyone else, the chile pepper arouses intense love-it-or-hate-it passions.

To get technical for a moment, “chile” is the term for a wide range of fruits of the genus capsicum, five species of which are cultivated, with two of those, C. annuum and C. frutescens, accounting for most modern varieties. Intriguing evolutionary sidebar: C. frutescens, whose peppers are, by and large, hotter than those of C. annuum, may have evolved later. Its higher heat level may have resulted from natural selection in the wild plant, as a defence against the fruit, and seeds, being eaten.

As far back as 7000 BC, wild chiles were being gathered and eaten in Mexico, and by 3500 BC, they were being cultivated. On his first voyage, Columbus may have come across the hot little fruit, and may have taken it back to Europe. Not long thereafter, the Spaniards and Portuguese carried chiles to India and Southeast Asia. Soon, chiles quickly spread to the Middle East, the Balkans and Europe, and not surprisingly, were readily accepted in areas where people were accustomed to eating intensely spiced food.

Chiles vary widely in colour, size, shape (most are long, thin and pointed) and taste, ranging from comparatively benign to pungent and mouth-searingly hot.

Regardless of its intensity, chile’s defining heat originates from capsaicin, an irritant alkaloid found mainly in the interior membrane to which the seeds adhere. But the savvy cook will use chile peppers as much for flavour as for heat. So the question arises: Why do people willingly eat — and indeed, even enjoy — something that literally causes pain? One theory holds that chile-induced discomfort causes the brain to produce endorphins, which create feelings of pleasure. It’s also thought that the chemicals in chiles are mildly addictive.

In many countries, chiles are eaten fresh and whole. They can also be chopped and used to garnish food, or ground and mixed with other ingredients in a cooked dish. Drying or roasting chiles changes their nature, adding a new level of flavour. For instance, a jalapeno pepper that’s dried and smoked becomes chipotle, a staple of the Mexican kitchen.

For the home cook, a few helpful hints are in order. When handling chiles, always wear gloves (the disposable plastic variety, available at drug stores, work well). Always be extremely careful not to touch your eyes, nose or ears after handling chiles. To bank the fires of a mouth inflamed by chiles, try eating cucumber slices, perhaps even in yogurt, in an Indian raita. Boiled rice, bread and bananas are also thought to bring relief.

Armed with a little common sense, the gourmet adventurer can safely begin the tantalizing voyage into the hot and spicy world of chiles.

Shrimp in Chile Pepper Cream Sauce

Chile peppers, white wine, herbs and cream join forces to create a light, flavour-packed sauce for firm, sweet shrimp. Served over rice, these saucy shrimp make for a deeply satisfying main dish.

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 lbs raw shrimp, shelled and de-veined
3 fresh chile peppers,* seeds and stems removed
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp butter
3 yellow onions, finely chopped
4 tbsp white breadcrumbs
4 oz. dry white wine 1/2 tsp dried tarragon
1 tsp dried thyme
Salt and pepper
20 oz. light cream
* possible pepper varieties: aji, thai bird (also called bird or a bird’s-eye), jalapeno, anaheim, serrano

METHOD:

1. In a large saucepan, bring salted water to a rollicking boil, add the shrimp; cook for 3 to 4 minutes (or until shrimp turn a light pink). remove shrimp from pan and drain. Set aside.
2. In a blender or food processor, add chile peppers and 1 tsp of the oil, and blend until mixture becomes a paste. Set aside.
3. Heat butter and remaining oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. add onions and saute until soft and transparent, about 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Add reserved chile pepper paste, breadcrumbs, wine, tarragon and thyme to the onion mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well, then bring to a boil and keep at a steady boil for 5 minutes.
5. Add cream and mix well; reduce to a simmer. add shrimp and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until heated through. Serve immediately over rice.

Serves 4

This entry was posted on Sunday, October 14th, 2007 at 1:13 pm and is filed under Gourmet. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a comment, or trackback from your own site. Add to del.icio.us.