Posh Spice
By Don Douloff
Ginger is one of the world’s great seasonings boasting a flavour all its own, peppery and subtly sweet, and an equally assertive aroma, pungent and spicy. This knobby, tantalizing root animates everything it touches.
The ginger plant is not known to exist in the wild, but is thought to have originated in Southern China. It’s been cultivated in Southeast Asia since ancient times. The Romans, during the glory years of their Empire, prized ginger among the Eastern spice imports. Interestingly, given ginger’s singular flavour, they used it relatively little in cooking, preferring it for medicinal purposes.
After the Empire fell, ginger found its way into Europe. Indeed, the spice was used in England during Anglo-Saxon times, and throughout the medieval period it was almost as prevalent in that country as pepper. By then, preserved ginger was being imported for consumption as a sweet. The origin of gingerbread dates to the same period.
During that time, well-to-do European households liberally employed ginger in all manner of dishes. By the 18th century, though, it was being primarily used in baked goods (mostly biscuits and cakes). Much more recently, during the past 30 years, the use of ginger in savoury foods has been revived thanks to the growing influence of Asian cuisine.
India grows about half of the world’s ginger. It also flourishes in Jamaica—home to the pale, delicately flavoured dried ginger favoured by connoisseurs. As well, ginger is cultivated in China, Taiwan, Nigeria and Thailand. Recently, Australia has become an important producer, specializing in the preserved variety.
As with any food, ginger’s characteristics vary according to its country or region of origin, the conditions in which it’s grown and stage at which it’s harvested. Those factors dictate the pungency, aroma and flavour of each particular local variety.
Extremely versatile, ginger can be used either fresh or dried, which differ greatly in flavouring power, with dried being less peppery and more floral. Both types are popular throughout Asia, although fresh prevails. The Chinese, Japanese and East Indians use it grated, ground, slivered and even pickled (in the case of Japanese sushi). Now food lovers in North America, where preference has been for ground dried ginger in baked goods, are taking a page from our Asian friends’ cookbooks and adding fresh ginger to stir-fries, salads, rice and noodle preparations, soups and meat-, fish-, chicken- and vegetable-based main courses.
And let’s not forget the refreshing quality ginger adds to beverages: ginger beer, ginger ale, ginger tea. And then there’s ginger ice cream…Ah, ginger—how do we love thee? Let us count the ways.
Szechuan Noodle Salad
Cleverly capitalizing on ginger’s fragrant bite, this lively noodle salad can be served as an appetizer, main course or as part of a cold buffet.
INGREDIENTS:
Dressing:
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 1/2 tbsp fresh ginger, finely chopped
1 1/2 tbsp granulated sugar
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp chile paste
1/2 tsp salt
2 tbsp sesame oil
Salad:
12 oz. fresh Chinese vermicelli noodles (or pasta of your choice)
3 cups mung bean sprouts, blanched*
2 cups slivered barbecued pork (or 1 cup small cooked shrimp and 1 cup slivered ham)
2 red bell peppers, seeded and thinly sliced
4 green onions (including a portion of the green stems), thinly sliced
1/2 cup cilantro, firmly packed (as optional garnish)
* To blanch bean sprouts, submerge in boiling water for about a minute, than plunge into cold water.
METHOD:
- Make dressing. Combine all ingredients except sesame oil and stir well to incorporate. Stir in sesame oil and set aside.
- Cook noodles until al dente (tender but firm). Drain and rinse under cold water till noodles are cool. Drain and transfer to a large bowl containing remaining salad ingredients (not including cilantro). Pour the dressing overtop and toss, making sure all ingredients are well-coated.
Serve at room temperature. Garnish with cilantro, if desired.
Note: This recipe can be prepared one day in advance and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Serves 6 to 8 people as an appetizer or light main course.
Give our recipe a try and tell us what you think—“two forks up” or “two forks down!” Send comments to food@outpostmagazine.com. And if, during your travels, you sample a delicious dish and are able to snag the recipe, send it to the same email address and we’ll consider it for publication.
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