– Bad Day on Big Rock
- Recovering Lost Roots in Norway
- Molokai’s Slice of Old Polynesia

This issue features travelling Zambia’s wild side, Restoring South Africa’s San Bushman cave art and Icons of East Africa plus much more.

FEATURES

26_THE GEOGRAPHY OF MEMORY
For an age-old culture Norway can still feel like a work in progress, an improvisation of landscape and ingenuity. From a captial obsessed with preserving its culture to the remote mythological landscapes of Fjordland, Norway’s geography can seem as restless as its people.
STORY: DAVID FIELD + PHOTOS: KATRINA MILLER

34_THE PILGIMAGE’S PROGRESS
How do you get off the beaten path in a country that has been inhabited for centuries? Where every corner, every step, something happened before? Outpost lights out for Israel’s frontiers, where we learn that the stories of fellow travellers are as profound as the place itself.
STORY: REBECCA CALDWELL + PHOTOS: JASON GEORGE

48_BORN TO THE LAND
Molokai is a half-forgotten vestige of the old Polynesia, the only island in Hawaii where the natives form the majority and its indigenous language is gaining speakers. You don’t come here looking for a curtain of high-rise hotels along the beaches – there isn’t a single building taller than a palm tree. And that’s likely the way it’s going to stay.
STORY: JOSEPH G. FREY

DEPARTMENTS

07_TRIPPING
The fledgling sport-hobby of urban exploration loses one of its pioneers

12_COMIX
WELCOME TO MY COUNTRY: GUATEMALA

14_SOFT MACHINE
SWEATING IT OUT
Just how hydrated do you need to be?

16_FIELD NOTES
THE FUTURE OF THE PAST
How a scientist is working to preserve 3,000-year-old San Bushman cave paintings in South Africa.

20_TRIPFINDER
ZAMBIA EXTREME
Why Zambia is starting to make people’s must-see list of adventure destinations.

24_MEC’S THE TRAVELLER’S EDGE
Tips to make the most of your travels

44_GOIN’ HARD
FLEETING DREAMS
A dream expedition can be more than one bargains for.

55_CULTURE
VANISHING WORLD
Nick Brandts images of East Africa.

66_WRIGHT OF WAY
KING OF THE BOG
Ian aims to beat the record at the World Bog Snorkelling Championships in Wales.
RESOURCES

62_BACKPACKERS BUZZ
Travel news and updates from Hostelling International Alberta and British Columbia